Backpacker
October 2006
Edited by David Howard
©
Bill Donahue
NO
ONE WILL EVER BE SURE how John Donovan spent his last days on earth.
What is nearly certain is that on May 6, 2005, as a blizzard dumped
8 inches of snow on Southern California’s Mt. San Jacinto,
Donovan was trapped on the flanks of the 10,834-foot peak under
an ocean of blinding whiteness.
At
the time, he was just 5 days shy of his 60th birthday. He had an
enlarged heart, which made breathing—and often even thinking
clearly—difficult at altitude. He was lost and alone. A veteran
hiker who was nonetheless a notoriously bad navigator, Donovan had
strayed from the Pacific Crest Trail, which he was thru-hiking.
He carried no useful maps, nor a compass. He was traveling ultralight,
using a tarp in lieu of a tent and socks in place of gloves, and
he had few provisions. And he’d headed into the storm against
the advice of altitude-savvy backpackers.
Anyone who knew Donovan would have cringed to see him in this predicament—and
yet they wouldn’t have been terribly surprised. Donovan, stubborn
and headstrong, had spent his life confounding others with what
appeared at times to be contradictory behaviors.
To
those who didn’t know him, Donovan often seemed gruff and
ill-mannered. He swore like a sailor and burst into laughter at
awkward moments. He never married, or even dated, and though he
had earned a decent salary before retiring from his job as a social
worker, he lived like a bum. He inhabited a succession of ravaged
$300-a-month dwellings, including an abandoned, partially incinerated
savings bank that had no heat. He never had a telephone, and he
eschewed computers and cars, choosing instead to walk almost everywhere
he went. And he was famously cheap; he never sprang for a restaurant
tab.
Though
his friends knew him to be a joker, Donovan was also a deep thinker
and an inveterate student of history capable of waxing erudite on
opera and Europe’s great cathedrals. Though his living situation
suggests he was a hermit, he craved companionship, striving to avoid
the loneliness of his childhood, most of which he spent as an orphan.
He once told a friend that his greatest fear was dying alone, as
a ward of the state, in a hospital. He hiked with his pals in Virginia’s
Old Dominion Appalachian Trail Club as many as 100 days a year,
never missing the Thanksgiving and New Year’s Day outings,
and these friends remember him as the most generous and gentle person
they ever met.
Donovan
believed his mission in life was to help others, and he foreswore
many of the niceties of modern culture to focus on that effort.
At Central State Hospital, in Petersburg, VA, where he’d often
supervised “dual-diagnosis” patients (who were in wheelchairs
and mentally ill), Donovan had orchestrated novel field trips. He’d
take them to city parks, or hunt down free theater tickets and drive
them to the plays. “He’d lug these patients around all
by himself,” says Sharon Loving, another social worker at
Central. “He’d lift them into the hospital van one by
one.”
Now,
though, in the swirling snow on San Jacinto, no one was there to
help Donovan. And his destiny seemed plain: Here was a willful and
defiant man who’d taken chances in the outdoors one time too
many. Surely the mountain would snuff him out, scattering his generous
spirit to the wind.
And
yet, his story somehow transcends that inexorable logic. Even when
the mountain was done with him, Donovan’s mission seemed to
gain a sort of afterlife, an ability to carry on when he couldn’t.
Indeed, in getting lost and facing his darkest nightmare—a
solitary death—he would be doing the best thing he possibly
could for two people he would never meet.
DONOVAN,
IT TURNS OUT, was no stranger to humbling situations. He was born
in Pittsburgh to working-class parents, but his father left home
when he was an infant. His mother died before he was 10, and he
spent years bouncing between Catholic orphanages. Eventually, he
moved in with an unmarried aunt who took him along to the swank
hotel restaurant where she waited tables. The boy killed time in
the bakery, or sold newspapers on the street. “He did grown-up
things when he was young,” says his friend Chris Hook. “He
kind of raised himself, like Oliver Twist.”
He
had no siblings, not even a cousin he was close to, and there isn’t
a single person who can recount the entire arc of his life. Questions
about how he spent his 15 years in the Navy, for instance, remain
unanswered. And Donovan’s legal next of kin was a stranger.
“I can’t remember if I ever actually met him,”
says cousin Chris Davenport, of Monrovia, CA. “But he kept
in touch—Christmas cards and so on.”
Donovan
looked to his ancestral past for a sense of rootedness. He saw Irish
Catholics as his tribe. On the trail, he packed a little whiskey
and carried it, per his trademark, in a recycled bottle that bore
a Sea Breeze astringent label (providing him with his trail name).
At parties, he often slipped into a full-on fake Irish brogue as
he made cracks about the harsh discipline imposed by nuns at the
orphanages.
He
wasn’t a churchgoer, but he was keenly aware of religious
history. Donovan could expound on the actions of long-ago popes
and the church’s pantheon of saints. So it was characteristic
that, on April 21, 2005, just before hitting the PCT trailhead in
Campo, Donovan stood in a small alcove at San Diego de Alcala Mission
and lit two candles. One was to honor St. Christopher, patron of
travelers. The second flame paid tribute to St. Anthony, patron
saint of the lost.
Donovan
needed these saints’ help. He’d taken up hiking in his
40s, to lose weight, but he still walked slowly, sometimes trudging
into camp 2 or 3 hours behind his pals. Though he trekked 4,000
miles a year, he was in some ways an amateur. He got lost often.
Once, on Vermont’s Long Trail, he detoured to take in a vista—and
then, returning to the path, hiked 3 miles back the way he’d
come, not stopping until he hit a road and saw a car that looked
vaguely familiar.
Donovan
had originally planned to hike the PCT with Ken Baker, a good friend
from the Old Dominion ATC. Baker, 60, is a retired mechanical engineer
and lifelong bachelor who lives in an old farmhouse outside Richmond.
A methodical man who speaks with a soft Southern drawl, he spends
3 or 4 months a year backpacking and is known for the easy, loping
stride that helps him whip through 20-plus miles a day.
Baker
had taken roughly 100 hiking trips with Donovan since they met through
the ATC in the late ’90s, and though the two men were contemporaries,
Baker regarded his friend with an elder’s fond dismay. “John
was kind of clumsy,” he says, “and he wasn’t mechanically
inclined. Sometimes he’d step on his glasses and I’d
have to fix them for him.”
Baker
introduced Donovan to ultralight backpacking, retrofitting his buddy’s
gear by, say, removing a pack’s metal stays and replacing
them with light, thin dowels of wood. In 2004, as Donovan cast about
for a place to spend his retirement, Baker spruced up an outbuilding
on his farm, erecting particleboard walls and installing a primitive
bathroom. He offered Donovan a sweet deal: $200 a month, utilities
gratis.
In
spring 2005, Baker told Donovan he wanted to postpone the start
of their PCT trip by 3 weeks. “I’d looked at the weather
data,” Baker explains, “and Southern California had
just had its snowiest winter in 30 or 40 years.” But Donovan
couldn’t be dissuaded from the original plan. “I asked,
‘What if you get lost?’” Baker recalls. “He
just said, ‘The crowds up ahead will blaze a trail through
the snow. I’ll be all right.’”
That
was Donovan’s style. His buds called him “El Burro”
for the way he plowed through icy creeks and windstorms and meandered
off course for 2 days and still finished his trek. Though Donovan
never made it look easy, he’d bagged the 500-mile Colorado
Trail and the 2,175-mile Appalachian Trail, which he section-hiked
over the course of a decade.
Photos
of Donovan finishing the AT show him picking his way past lichen-speckled
boulders, climbing Maine’s Mt. Katahdin. There he is, pivoting
over a rock obstacle, and then, finally, standing atop the fog-shrouded,
5,268-foot finish line, beaming in the wind as he flashes victory
signs. The pictures, taken by Baker, are glorious. They show an
unsung citizen realizing a dream after years of struggles.
Donovan
was desperate to notch more moments like these, quickly, before
he became too old and weak. “There was a lot he wanted to
get done in his first few years of retirement,” says Baker.
“He wanted to go to China and Russia and Australia. He was
going to travel 6 months a year.”
But
first and foremost was hiking the PCT, which Donovan spent a year
planning. On a manual typewriter, he tapped out a 6-page itinerary
that reflects a hunger to impose order on a big and unwieldy adventure.
He stipulated, down to the half-ounce, how much coffee he’d
need, and he encouraged friends to send gifts, “but nothing
that has to be carried past the post office. I am just too old &
lighter is better.”
Donovan
wasn’t about to wait for Baker, or the melting snow. He took
off on April 19, the day he retired. “They had a party for
him that morning at work,” says Chris Hook. “And at
12:30 I called to wish him luck. He was already gone.”
AT
THE START OF HIS THRU-HIKE, at least, Donovan was not alone. He
headed north from the Mexican border with his friend Lynn Padgett,
laboring through the hot, undulating Mojave Desert that surrounds
the PCT’s first 100 miles. Padgett, 48, is a burly tool salesman
with a bushy red beard and a warm, Falstaffian manner. He had thru-hiked
the AT in 1997, but in the years since he’d drifted out of
the hiking club’s inner circle and put on a good deal of weight.
Donovan
didn’t care; he’d always relished Padgett’s boisterous
company. The two men called each other “comrade,” in
exaggerated deference to Donovan’s left-leaning politics,
and they shared a propensity for bumbling adventures. One Christmas
Eve, they hiked to a cabin in Shenandoah National Park, then lit
the woodstove. At around 10 p.m., Padgett said, “Hey, comrade,
what do you say we hike out to my car and go get some beer and cigarettes?”
“Yeah,
a beer would be good right now,” Donovan said.
The
trip out was 4.5 miles, one way, amid a chaos of trees felled by
a recent storm. “So we’re cranking over these trees,”
Padgett says, “and it’s cold, and we had nothing—no
water, no packs. Finally, John sits down on a log and says, ‘Comrade,
I can’t see one blaze.’ We turned back—and only
the next morning did we realize we could’ve gotten lost and
frozen out there. We were lucky. John had the luck of the Irish.”
Padgett
said that once, when Donovan was hiking alone on icy snow in Poland’s
Tetra Mountains, Donovan had slipped and went careening down a long,
glazed slope. Two other hikers had died in the area that same day,
as Donovan told it, but he’d survived because the cord on
his windpants snared a bush, arresting his slide. “He called
those his lucky pants,” Padgett says. “He wore them
everywhere.”
In
the Mojave, Donovan accidentally left his lucky pants at a motel.
He soon became obsessed with the loss. “One windy night in
camp, I set up my tent and got in,” Padgett says. “John
was still out there struggling to set up that little tarp of his,
so I yelled to him, ‘Hey, comrade, how’s that tarp treating
you?’”
“The
damn wind’s blowing it all over the place,” Donovan
hissed, “and I don’t even have my lucky pants.”
A couple
of days later, though, in the town of Warner Springs, the tables
turned. Now, Padgett was frustrated. His feet were so swollen that
he had to quit hiking after just 100 miles. Yet Donovan was jubilant.
“Guess what, comrade,” he exclaimed, waltzing out of
the post office. “The guy at the motel sent me my pants—and
he paid the postage!”
The
euphoria was short-lived. From there on, Donovan would hike alone,
into the clutches of a powerful storm.
SAN
JACINTO, THE FIRST MAJOR MOUNTAIN that north-bound PCT thru-hikers
encounter, is a cragged giant rising from the desert floor 60 miles
beyond Warner Springs. Everest-bound diehards frequently train on
its north face, which is among the nation’s steepest escarpments,
climbing more than 10,000 feet in just 7 miles. Those mountaineers
frequently mingle with ultra-runners and PCT hikers on the bald,
rocky peak.
But
Mt. San Jacinto also has a broader appeal. The Palm Springs Aerial
Tramway, located just up the road from the resorts and golf courses
of Palm Springs, climbs to an 8,500-foot mountain plateau in about
15 minutes, delivering tourists to two restaurants, a lounge, and
a gift shop near the summit. On May 6, 2006, a warm Saturday, two
young Texans were among visitors looking for a view with their cocktails.
Brandon Day, 28, and Gina Allen, 24, had met on MySpace.com a few
weeks before, and Day, a financial advisor from Dallas, had taken
Allen along to a conference at a resort in Palm Desert.
Neither
had been so high in the mountains before. In shorts and tennis shoes,
holding a digital camera, they strolled to a creek and, in the giddy
throes of new romance, pelted each other with snowballs. They were
also a little hung-over, the aftereffects of a gala at the resort.
And so they were not too sharp of mind that afternoon as they drifted
down a path, away from the tram, and away from all things familiar.
BY
THE TIME DONOVAN BEGAN CLIMBING Mt. San Jacinto on May 2, 2005,
the signs of danger were legion. Snow was 3 feet deep up high, and
meteorologists were predicting a heavy storm. Many thru-hikers elected
to wait out the weather in Idyllwild, accessible via an easy 2.4-mile
path branching west from an intersection called Saddle Junction.
These
hikers feared the storm would hit as they were climbing Fuller Ridge,
a steep, rocky spine rising to 8,725 feet about 5 miles north of
Saddle Junction. Around noon on May 3, when three well-equipped
hikers whipped down that ridge and encountered Donovan, they warned
him that they’d seen clouds sweeping in. “But we weren’t
going to change his mind,” says Brian Barnhart, a Pittsburgh-based
metallurgist. “He was emphatic about going up Fuller Ridge.”
Duane
Steiner, a photographer from Lake Arrowhead, CA, likewise remembers
Donovan as overconfident. “This guy was going to conquer the
world,” says Steiner. “I said, ‘I know the area.
You need to buy an ice axe to do Fuller Ridge.’” Donovan
rejected the advice, a choice that wouldn’t have surprised
his friends and colleagues. They recall him defiantly walking 4
miles to work even on frigid days, his face wind-burned and frozen
when he arrived. As an ultralighter, he probably figured an ice
axe was a heavy, extravagant tool he’d rarely use, and anyway
he was too stubborn to change now.
Around
1 p.m. on May 3, Donovan likely began to have doubts. He climbed
into Little Tahquitz Valley, just south of Saddle Junction, and
found that the trail, partly visible until then, was now concealed
by snow. The footprints amid the tall ponderosas were scattered,
and the trees bore no blazes. Donovan sought help from two other
hikers—a Canadian nurse named Connie Davis, 46, and her 20-year-old
son, Alex, both of whom had extensive altitude experience.
Donovan
had camped near the Davises the night before, and they did not hit
it off. “He had no trouble speaking his mind,” Connie
Davis says. “When we talked of how young men can ‘find
themselves’ on the trail, he was dismissive. He said, ‘You
find yourself living your life.’”
When
Donovan began following the Davises through the snowfield, Connie
told him, “We’re not going to take the most direct route.”
He tagged along anyway as the Davises navigated with an altimeter,
staying at 8,000 feet, hugging the contour line as it squiggled
across both the landscape and their topo map.
Donovan
stayed about 30 feet behind them. He’d put on crampons, but
the spikes didn’t work well with his lightweight trail runners,
and he slipped and fell repeatedly.
“He
was having a hard time,” says Connie. “But he seemed
healthy, and it seemed to me that he was going to hike up Fuller
Ridge if he wanted to. I remember thinking, he’s an adult.
I won’t tell him what to do.”
The
Davises kept gliding along, snapping photos and aiding their balance
with trekking poles. Donovan kept falling—and cursing in frustration.
Eventually,
the Davises followed a small creek uphill and turned northwest roughly
half a mile south of Saddle Junction. “That’s where
we saw him last,” Connie Davis later wrote in a letter to
the PCT community. It was at about 8,080 feet on the afternoon of
May 3. “He was very close to Saddle Junction. There was patchy
snow at this point, and you could see hints of the trails.”
No
one knows exactly what Donovan did next. No one ever saw him alive
again.
IT
WOULD BE COMFORTING TO hear that Donovan’s friends quickly
learned that he was missing and summoned search-and-rescue crews.
But they didn’t. The sad truth is that a surrogate family
lacks the blood-thickness of a real one, and Donovan’s friends
were preoccupied. They sent him mail drops and glanced at his itinerary,
but Chris Hook was vacationing in Utah. Another friend, a nurse
practitioner named Coleen Kenny, kept a votive candle that Donovan
had asked her to light in his absence. Kenny was busy, though. The
candle scarcely got lit.
Twelve days passed before anyone realized Donovan was missing. No
one called for help until after Kenny discovered, on May 15, that
Donovan had failed to pick up three mail drops north of Palm Springs.
By then, Donovan may have already been dead.
The
PCT community, bound by the Internet and by rumors floating up and
down the trail, collectively shuddered. “Missing” posters
appeared at trailside post offices, and theories swirled as to his
fate.
Many
hikers believed that Donovan headed toward Fuller Ridge and then
faltered in the blizzard. Dave Koskenmaki, 61, an orienteering expert,
says the conditions on the ridge on May 6 were miserable. “The
visibility was about 100 feet,” he says. Steiner, the photographer,
postulated that Donovan spied the lights of Idyllwild after the
whiteout eased up, then began to fight his way down toward the town,
muscling through brush, only to stumble off one of the myriad 30-
to 50-foot dropoffs en route.
About
the only thing that seemed certain was that Donovan perished on
San Jacinto’s west side, near Saddle Junction. On Memorial
Day weekend, 2005, Riverside County Rescue Unit personnel combed
the area with dogs. After 2 fruitless days, officials called off
the search for good.
BACK
IN VIRGINIA, Donovan’s friends could only reflect on the vacuum
his absence created. Robert Duesberry recalled how he needed a friend
after his wife committed suicide in January 1999. “I needed
to do something,” says the 46-year-old tile installer. “I
needed to stop thinking, so I called the club and said, ‘Who
goes hiking in winter?’”
Donovan
seemed unfazed that Duesberry hadn’t hiked in 20 years. The
two men backpacked almost every weekend that winter. At night, they
had long conversations. “John talked about forgiveness,”
says Duesberry, who continued the winter hikes with Donovan until
his friend vanished. “He said that sooner or later you’ll
stop being angry and forgive her for killing herself. He listened;
he helped me see a way out. He offered a breath of fresh air when
I needed it most.”
Another
club member who was sexually abused as a child says Donovan helped
him overcome the long-simmering trauma. “I’ve told very
few people what happened to me,” the man says, “but
when you got around John, you’d open up. He was very comforting.
He quoted statistics about what happens to victims. He said I’d
beaten the odds. He said, ‘You’re stable. You’re
a good person.’ And then he never shared what I’d said
with anybody. I came away feeling cleansed.”
When
you’re a reporter asking about people who are gone, you can
glimpse a dead person’s spirit by watching how his survivors
receive your curiosity. Often, they’re cagey or indifferent.
But Donovan’s friends were happy to talk, to tell hilarious
stories about their old pal. Padgett told anecdotes for almost 3
hours in a TGI Friday’s one night. He followed up with a note
that said: “God rest his soul.”
All
of the stories painted a consistent picture: John Donovan was a
little socially obtuse and eccentric, yes. But his generosity had
an enduring quality, and he emitted a purity of spirit that was
almost holy. Somehow, you’d always come away from time with
him better for the experience.
AFTER
THEIR SNOWBALL FIGHT, Brandon Day and Gina Allen hiked the 1.5-mile
Desert View Trail, which loops the high flats by the tramway. On
a whim, they ventured off-course to a cliff atop Long Valley. Day,
who has hard blue eyes and a blond buzz cut, was never a wilderness
type. He wears a gold Texas Tech fraternity ring, and still talks
of his football days. “In high school,” the 5-foot-8,
155-pound Day says, “I played fullback, and the reason is
I like to hit.”
Brandon’s
father, Paul, later said Brandon actually played defensive back,
a position better suited to slight players. But from his dad, who
coached him early on in football and baseball, Day inherited an
old-school code of manhood. He describes himself as a take-charge
type possessed of a “can-do attitude.” And he is invariably
courtly. “I’m the kind of guy,” he says, “who
always holds the door open for ladies.”
Day
was drawn to Allen’s MySpace.com profile because she, too,
had football in her past. She was an all-American cheerleader as
a teen and then a roving cheerleading instructor. After earning
a degree in family-resource management from Iowa State, she moved
to Dallas to live with her sister.
On
their first date, Day took Allen to a Moroccan-themed lounge called
the Velvet Hookah. “There were pillows all over the floor,”
Allen recalls, “and people were lying on them with their shoes
off. It was a very chill place. It was different.”
It wasn’t the last unusual place Allen would go with Day.
CALIFORNIA
AUTHORITIES NOW know that Donovan checked his bravado after parting
company with the Davises on May 3, and tried to detour west down
into Idyllwild. But with no way to navigate, he became disoriented.
In a journal written in the margins of photocopied guidebook pages,
Donovan scribbled, “Couldn’t find the trail to Idyllwild.”
So
instead he cut away from Idyllwild, drawn by the lights of much
larger Palm Springs. Traveling about 3 miles northeast from the
Saddle Junction area that night, he traversed skinny Willow Creek,
then climbed a small ridge and plunged down into a steep gash called
Hidden Valley. As he dipped into lower, heartier climate zones,
the brush became nasty and thick, the talus rife with scrub oak
and manzanita.
Donovan’s
journal places him in Long Valley, at about 4,300 feet, the night
of May 3. On May 5, still camped in the same ravine, he took a fall.
How badly he was hurt is unclear; Donovan didn’t elaborate.
But clearly the ordeal of the past few days had landed him in trouble.
He wrote that he had already become too weak to climb up out of
the canyon.
Indeed,
the cryptic notes Donovan scrawled depict a man coming to terms
with the bleakness of his situation. He tried to signal for help.
He built a few weak fires that smoldered out, due to the winter’s
copious snows. He flashed a mirror at the sky. No one saw him. A
100-foot waterfall lay directly below, and the canyon’s walls
were virtually sheer. He was boxed in, and he likely knew that it
would be days, maybe a week or more, before anyone noticed he was
missing.
At
one point on May 5, Donovan took an inventory of his supplies. He
was down to 12 cheese crackers.
His
friends believe Donovan would’ve remained hopeful. “He
always carried a transistor radio,” says Chris Hook, “and
I bet he kept turning it on, waiting to hear that people were searching
for a hiker. He believed things would work out.”
Then
again, Donovan was a realist. “I see him walking around, yelling,
‘John, how the hell did you get yourself into this?’”
says Lynn Padgett. “Especially as he got older, when he made
mistakes he was hard on himself. John didn’t believe in fairy
tales. He knew nobody was going to swoop down from the sky and save
him.”
AROUND
3 P.M., DAY AND ALLEN heard a waterfall and wandered off-course
again, to take pictures of the cascade. When they tried to get back
on the trail, they couldn’t find it. “I wasn’t
worried,” says Day. “I have a good sense of direction.
And we figured that if we missed the bus back to the resort, we
could just take a taxi.”
They
followed voices for a while, only to discover that, in fact, they
were chasing echoes. By 5 p.m., they’d floundered back to
Long Creek, which they’d seen from the overlook. They yelled
for help and heard nothing but echoes, so they tried to head directly
north, toward the tram. But they kept hitting dead ends. “The
mountain forces you downward,” Day explains. “It was
like Chinese finger cuffs: The more we tried to get out, the tighter
and steeper it got.”
When
dusk fell, Day scrambled ahead alone in search of alternate paths.
“He went out of sight,” Allen says, “and I was
shaking. I was really scared.” Allen had never spent a night
outside, though she’d tried to camp out back in Iowa. “Me
and my girlfriends, we’d start out,” she says, “but
then my brothers would come out and make scary noises.”
Now
she was up above 7,000 feet, in a tank top and a windbreaker. Day
returned after his unsuccessful reconnaissance mission, and the
two sat and waited. “It made perfect sense to us,” he
says, “that rangers were out looking for us with flashlights
and bullhorns.”
AT
A SPOT SEVERAL MILES DOWNHILL from them, exactly one year earlier,
Donovan had less confidence. In his journal, he conceded that Ken
Baker had been “the smart one.” He regretted not heeding
his advice about waiting, and told Baker he wanted to be buried
in a Navy cemetery. On May 11, he celebrated his 60th birthday by
eating two of his crackers.
In
his last entry, dated May 14, he scribbled that he was going down
to Long Creek for water. “Goodbye and love you all,”
he wrote.
THE
RANGERS NEVER SHOWED UP, so in the morning, after shivering all
night in the 45°F chill, Day and Allen decided to climb up San
Jacinto to be more visible. The two made it almost to the summit,
Day says, around noon. But they saw no one, and after yelling in
vain for help, they made a snap decision. “We couldn’t
sleep there, up high, in the cold,” says Day.
Riverside
County SAR veteran Pete Carlson says Day and Allen should have followed
a ridgeline down. “They’d be visible,” he says,
“and the descent would be gradual.” Instead, they thrashed
deeper into Long Valley, encountering an increasingly steep slope
marred with gravel, weeds, and impassable boulders. Day, a chess
player, tried to think “five moves ahead.” But the mountain
kept vexing them. At one point, he says, “We were going down
this steep, gravelly slope, and I got to a 10-foot dropoff. I’m
hanging onto a vine to ease down, and then I see this boulder tumbling
at me. I swung out over the cliff, holding the vine, and the rock
tumbled by.”
They
feared Long Creek was filled with microbes, but in time they drank
from it to avoid dehydration. But they were famished. “By
the third night,” Day says, “we were running out of
bullets.”
Allen
prayed. Raised Catholic, she prayed to St. Christopher, the patron
saint of travelers, and to St. Anthony, the patron saint of the
lost.
John
Donovan would not likely have shrugged off this uncanny coincidence.
He was not, at his core, a logical or technical person, and he saw
the world as shaped by forces beyond reason. It’s no surprise,
really, that a man who was orphaned as a boy believed in the power
of random luck, both good and bad, and in saints and the karmic
value of doing good unto others. He also likely adhered to the notion
of “trail magic”—a term thru-hikers use to explain
the unexplainable good things that happen on a trail.
But
Donovan also clearly figured out that good things don’t just
happen; you make them happen. And maybe some lingering thread of
his generous spirit occupied Long Valley that day when Brandon Day
spied a yellow backpack down below. The pair went to look. Inside,
along with some clothes, was Donovan’s journal, with an entry
dated May 8. Allen was ecstatic. “He’s got to be nearby,”
she said. “That’s today!”
“But
the entry was dated May 8, 2005,” says Day. “Exactly
a year before. It sank in that somebody died there. Mr. Donovan
was prepared and he had supplies. But still, he didn’t survive.”
DONOVAN’S
BODY LAY JUST 50 YARDS from Day and Allen. Though they never saw
it, it was just downstream, by a 20-foot waterfall, in a pool set
amid birches and mossy green rocks.
But
because help, or even a recovery crew, never came for him, Donovan
provided the Texas couple with a way out. In the pack, Day and Allen
found matches—roughly 20 strike-anywheres preserved in a plastic
bag. At once, Day set to work lighting a signal fire. He piled dry
vines and leaves and set them ablaze as Allen waved an orange stuff
sack they found in Donovan’s pack.
Soon, a helicopter floated over. “I was ripping branches off
dead trees, frantically feeding the fire,” says Day. “Gina
was jumping up and down, yelling.”
The
copter drifted by, its occupants oblivious, and the next morning—the
couple’s fourth day on the mountain—there were a dozen
matches left. “If we’re going out,” Day told Allen,
“we’re going out swinging.” He gathered 30 or
so dry logs and lit them. He shredded spent matches for kindling.
The flames leaped 20 feet. Suddenly, half an acre was burning. Day
sprinted toward Allen, hoping that the blaze wouldn’t engulf
them. “The smoke was thick,” he says, “and the
trees were on fire. I’m thinking, it’s going. It’s
a good signal fire.”
Rescue
workers had begun looking the night before after family members
reported them missing. Soon, a helicopter began circling. Allen
blew kisses to the pilot and leapt in the air, shouting. Then she
clung to Day, sobbing. “Thank you,” she said. “You
saved my life.”
Three
weeks later, rescue personnel returned on a different mission, and
a voice crackled over the radio: “We’ve got a body in
the water.” Donovan’s body was wrapped in his tarp,
straddling a fallen branch choking the stream. Now, only one mystery
lingered. Was Donovan’s final message a suicide note? Did
he leap to his death, anguished, after 11 days of waiting? Or did
he slip and endure a final fall? Not even his closest friends know
the truth.
IN
THE WEEKS THAT FOLLOWED THEIR RESCUE, Day and Allen became inseparable.
“We have such a deep bond now,” Allen says. “I
trust Brandon with my life.”
“I
feel like I’ve looked into Gina’s core inner being,”
Day says, “and found she has a lot to offer. We trusted each
other.”
Day
hopes to return to Long Canyon someday, with a guide. “Round
one went to the mountain,” he says, “but it’s
not over yet. We won’t feel complete until we conquer that
mountain.”
Day,
for one, doesn’t see Donovan’s tragedy as integral to
his survival. “They probably would have found us anyway,”
he told Allen. “They were on our trail.”
IN
VIRGINIA, THOUGH, DONOVAN’S FRIENDS BELIEVED. They recognized
his gift. On July 11, they buried him in a veterans’ cemetery
in Amelia County. Eighty people filled the chapel, and a minister
read from Psalm 23: “He leads me beside quiet water. He restores
my soul.” A ramrod-stiff Navy officer presented Ken Baker
with a flag.
Then,
as the crowd spilled outside onto the lawn, bagpipers played “Amazing
Grace” and Lynn Padgett moved to the grave bearing a red plastic
cooler. There, he opened a Sea Breeze bottle filled with Irish whiskey
and began filling up plastic cups, so everyone could take a nip.
“I
think of him all the time,” Padgett says. “Sometimes
as I fall asleep at night I see myself hiking by a stream and I
come around a bend and there’s a tarp. There’s a yellow
pack, and I yell, ‘Hey, comrade! Hey, comrade!’ But
there’s no sound, just the wind and the stream, and there’s
nothing there—just this green tarp and a pack and some shoes
on a rock.”
Bill
Donahue was on Mt. San Jacinto when John Donovan’s body was
recovered.
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